July 8th, 2024 - Berlin, Germany
It’s Monday and I turn on DW news as I typiclly do after making coffee. The day’s top story is Russian missile strikes in Ukraine. Earlier, the Kremlin launched a large scale attack on some of the country’s biggest cities including Dnipro, Kryvyi Rih (hometown of President Zelenskyy) and Kyiv, where a children’s hospital was struck as well as a block of flats which killed many and entombed others inside. It was the largest attack in nearly four months and one of the bloodiest days of the war, with a total of 44 dead (5 of them children), another 196 injured and 11 survivors dug out from the rubble so far. Despite some relative quiet in the capital in recent months, it was a brutal reminder that the war is not just being fought in the eastern and southern regions, but everywhere in Ukraine is still at risk.
I was shaken up a bit more than usual by the news because in just a few days I would be traveling to Kyiv to DJ two parties. Since setting up the trip some months ago, I always knew there was a risk of course, but to see the depravity just days before I left did have me second guessing things. It was one of those dates I had circled and starred on the calendar, always keeping an eye on developments, speaking with Ukrainian friends and as always, just listening to my gut. Despite the news, something was still telling me to press on.
When asked why I’m going to Ukraine during the war, I have a couple different reasons. First, I want to support the country. What’s happening there now is an urgent European (and global) issue. They’re our neighbours to the east and Berlin is just 871 km from the Ukrainian border. They are friends, family and colleagues and living in Berlin (or anywhere in Europe), you’re likely to meet or know someone from Ukraine. The music and cultural scene in Kyiv has also been very important in recent years and there’s a plethora of talented artists emerging from the city who have become entwined in our cultural community. I’m merely a DJ and a writer but when the opportunity arose to visit and raise funds for the defense of the country, it felt like a way in which I could actually use my skills to make a more significant impact.
Second, I have always seen The Brvtalist as a project which is meant to report on different scenes and movements. Exploring, exposing and excavating talent, communities and culture is at the core of what I do. While initially writing about a blossoming new scene in Los Angeles in 2011, it has evolved into a global platform which has taken me to places I never thought I would go and I have a constant desire to keep pushing this ethos as far as possible. I would not consider myself a thrill seeker by any stretch but when I discovered there were still parties happening in Kyiv during the war, it really fascinated me and I felt the need to go see how and why this was possible.
At present, Ukrainian airspace is completely closed so flights are out of the question. You must enter by land and can do so by car, bus or train. Warsaw has become sort of the connection point because of Poland’s shared border so you could also potentially fly in to Warsaw and then go by land from there. Despite the situation, tourism remains possible and foreigners are allowed to enter the country. The organisers booked me by train which is always my preferred way of travel anyways. Unfortunately though, there is no direct train between Berlin and Kyiv (although this has been talked about recently and would make a lot of sense).
July 11th, 2024 - Berlin Hauptbahnhof (Germany)
It’s 9:30 a.m. and I’m at Pret inside central station trying to decide how many sandwiches and croissants I’m going to buy for my trip to Kyiv (I buy two of each). In total it will take over 24 hours and multiple trains to get to Kyiv. My first train is from Berlin to Warsaw. It’s a standard intercity train that will take around 5 hours. From there I have a two hour layover in Warsaw and then I catch a train to Chełm, Poland (around a 3 hour trip) which is a city roughly 25 km from the Ukrainian border. It’s here that I board the Kyiv Express, an overnight train that goes directly to Kyiv and takes about 13 hours.
It’s nearly 8 pm in Chełm and the sun is beginning to set. The train is at the platform and the doors open ready to welcome passengers on board. I check my ticket for my wagon number and stand in line. When it’s my turn I present my ticket and passport and the ticket collector looks at my documents and says “American???”, with a sort of, “what the hell are you doing here?” inflection in his voice. I say yes and he says ok and lets me on board. The train is clearly dated but not ancient and it’s a classic overnighter. Each wagon has probably around ten separate cabins inside and within each cabin are two bunk style beds (4 sleeping positions in total). There’s a table in the middle and you’re provided with a bed sheet, a top sheet, blanket, pillow, pillow case and a wash towel. There’s 1-2 employees within each wagon to tend to passengers and they offer tea or coffee. I have a cabin to myself so I will try to enjoy some solitude.
I’m getting settled on board and the passengers are buzzing. It’s mostly women, children and families and this is due to Ukraine’s current conscription policy that applies to all males between the ages of 25 and 60. It’s also a full train as there are only a few of these each day. The tickets are released at a specific time 20 days before the departure date and they sell out almost immediately so you need to be fast. After about an hour of boarding, the train slowly starts to roll and we make our way toward the Ukrainian border.
The Kyiv Express
July 12th, 2024 Western Ukraine
It’s around 2:00 a.m and I’m jolted awake by the train coming to a stop. The party organisers gave me a heads up that passport control is always done around this time of night so I sit up, get out my passport and wait patiently. I look outside the window and it appears we’re at some sort of station or base where there are military personnel walking the perimeter of the train. I hear the controllers moving from cabin to cabin and finally they get to mine. I show them my document, it’s stamped and soon after someone else comes and takes my passport. I wait about another hour and they return it with no explanation. In total we’re there nearly 2 hours and the train again starts to move.
Around 8 a.m. we begin to see more signs of life outside. Since Poland, most of the trip scenery has just been an endless forest with maybe some fields appearing in between. We now pass small towns and cities and there’s an increasing amount of development which tells me we’re getting closer. It soon becomes clear we’re entering the city limits and the trip is nearing its end. It’s almost 11:00 a.m. and it’s a surreal feeling that I began this journey yesterday morning in Berlin and now I’m technically in the middle of war zone. I don’t really know what to expect but I’m excited I’m here still. We pull up to the platform and passengers get off and many are greeted by friends and family members, rejoicing they are together again. I am greeted by Pledov, a distinguished local artist, DJ, booker and important community figure who was born and raised in Kyiv. He is my go-to for the trip. We walk through the splendid old rotunda of the train station and now we’re outside, calling a car which will take us to my hotel.
July 12th, 2024 Kyiv, Ukraine
Driving through the city, I see no visible signs of war. It’s a Friday morning and things appear to be hustling and bustling just like in any capital in the world. People are walking outside, trams glide through the streets and people drink coffee at outdoor cafés. I’m staying at the Bursa hotel, a nice boutique located in Podil, a great neighbourhood in the historic center. There’s beautiful architecture, many restaurants and sites you might associate with tourism. However, there is obviously not much tourism happening right now and I see signs around that say “Kyiv Is Waiting For You After The Victory”.
We check in and I’m shown the hotel’s bomb shelter downstairs. These have become essential amenities for hotels as there is no telling when a strike might occur. The city has air raid sirens and when you hear one you need to proceed immediately to the closest shelter. For many this means the underground metro stations. Kyiv City State Administration reported that 32,000 people took cover in metro stations during the attacks on July 8th. You can never quite know the amount of time you have but it also depends of the type of missile being fired (some can reach its target in minutes). If you can’t get to a shelter, it is recommended to be behind two walls (in a bathroom for example) as that gives you a better chance of survival if you’re within a blast radius. Bursa’s shelter appears very adequate and there’s multiple beds, chairs and couches with blankets and pillows for those taking cover.
I have also downloaded the Ukraine Air Alert app, which sends alerts to your phone, and a friend sent me a couple Ukrainian Telegram groups which gives you more information about the alerts. Sometimes the app will send you an alert (and the default setting is mega loud and harsh - it terrified me) but that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s an incoming missile, which is why the Telegram groups are useful. Out on the streets though, air sirens are something all Ukrainians have become accustomed to since the start of the war. The Kyiv Post reported that Ukrainians endured around 7,000 sirens in 2023. That’s about 40 sirens per day across the country. Kyiv had 380 sirens at the time of the report in 2023 which amounts to 2 sirens per day. It’s difficult to comprehend the mental toll of that as well.
Another reality to grapple with is the daily electricity blackouts. After relentless Russian attacks took out half the country’s power generation capacity, to save energy, the city cuts electricity in different districts at different times every day. A lot of businesses (like hotels and restaurants) have adapted to this by using external generators. When you walk around Kyiv you see them everywhere and the buzz of generators can be heard and felt throughout the city. On the other hand though, a lot of civilians do not have access to a generator at home so there’s many reading books by candle light and you need to be sure your power banks are charged if you want to use technology continuously. It’s a lot to take in and being constantly aware, updated, alert and knowledgable is essential to existing here.
After a shower (finally) and a nap I meet Pledov at a place called Abo Records. It’s a record shop, outdoor bar and club space that feels like a community meeting place. I arrive around 8 pm and it’s packed even with a short line to get in. All events, parties and gatherings are subject to the same rules right now - because of a strictly enforced curfew in place every night from midnight - 5:00 a.m., all events must end around 10:45 p.m. This gives attendees and staff enough time to pack up, get out and find a way home before midnight. I’m told this is very serious and if you’re found out on the street after midnight you will most likely spend the night in jail and receive a large fine.
So this makes the cultural scene predominantly a day time activity. Also important to note is that almost every party or event is a fundraiser with all proceeds usually going to support the armed forces and essentially the defense of the country. It’s hard to completely convey how much this changes the whole dynamic of the party scene. Due to the time restrictions and everything else going on, the events become less about “partying” and taking drugs and more about community, fundraising and actually enjoying the music. In all my years DJing and partying, I don’t think I can say I’ve experienced something quite like this.
It’s around 9:30 pm now and I haven’t had dinner so we go to a place nearby called Kyyivhaz where I consume a great fried chicken sandwich. By 10:20 it’s time to start winding down. We call a car and I am back at the hotel before 11 p.m., ready for a good night’s sleep (perhaps an upside of the curfew).
July 13th, 2024 Kyiv, Ukraine
Today is the main event if you will and I am set to close ∄ later on. Often referred to as “K41”(given that the club’s address is Kyrylivska St. 41), many argue it’s the best club in the world. While it’s hard to give that designation to any one place, it certainly has to be in the conversation. For me it’s definitely one of the top places I’ve ever been. Opened in 2019 in a massive former brewery, it was designed by Berlin’s Studio Karhard (who also designed Berghain) and while you can definitely notice a similar feel and touch it is something very different still. There’s multiple dance floors, halls, and levels in the space. Lots of great chill areas, dark rooms, bathrooms and even a vegetarian cafe that serves nice food. It’s truly a multi-disciplinary project and they also host film screenings, performances, exhibitions and more. I love this and it’s really something that has become more rare in today’s event and venue landscape.
At the moment, during the summer and given the time restrictions, all of the “community events” are done outside in what they refer to as the “backyard”. I can definitely say this is my favorite outdoor space. With its towering steps and intimate but still large capacity, there is a special vibe here. I first came after playing another gig in Kyiv in 2021 and was blown away. Today was no different and I have to say I was even quite nervous to play. Every Saturday ∄ hosts a “Community Backyard” event which raises money and while very much focused on local talent, there can be an international artist on the lineup who was also brave enough to join.
My set time is 8:00 pm and I show up before 5:30 to hear a little of wallflower’s set (which was great) and then to catch Pledov play an all vinyl 90s/2000s set (also top notch). I’m greeted at the front by Daryna, the excellent artist host who shows me around the club which is truly a labyrinth that must take some time to learn. I get a veggie burrito at the café and we move outside to one of the lush chill areas. She tells me she moved to Berlin when the war started but after some time decided to come back home to be in Kyiv and is very happy about her decision. I spoke with others there who have similar stories (moving abroad and then going back) and many expressed a strong desire to stay there despite the circumstances. I then meet up with my friend Kseniia, a Ukrainian DJ now based in Berlin, who is also playing in Kyiv this weekend. We try some of the house shots at the bar (highly recommended as ∄ has a great menu of drinks) and I start to get in the zone for my set.
The crowd continues to swell and it’s my time to play. It’s still light outside so I start with some daytime vibes which includes deep house, nu disco and Italo. I have some fresh stuff from a recent set in Ibiza and while I’m not necessarily known for this style of music, I am really excited to play it again. When the sun goes down I speed things up and take it in a more techno direction, playing a mix of tracks that might fall under the genre’s umbrella. For me it is the perfect type of set. I try to make Brvtalist DJ sets sort of a real life extension of what you might find on the platform or channels. I play premieres we have done, tracks from New Brvtalism mixes and the artists who record them, also stuff from the Brvtalist label and it’s all filled in with basically anything else I just like at the time and tracks which feel appropriate in the moment. It’s not that often I get the opportunity to showcase such a wide array of sounds so music wise, this was also a very cool set for me to play.
By 9:00-9:30 it’s totally packed and playing ∄ backyard at sunset is something that is sure to stay in my mind. It finally gets dark and fog and lighting engulf the space. While I’m playing I look up and can only see shadows and figures of people dancing vigorously. The crowd stays with me the whole time and the energy is at full power. When 10:40 comes around it’s really hard to play the last track (X Club - “Everything Comes True”). I fade out and the crowd erupts into applause and cheers. I am embraced by several people near the booth and I am a bit overwhelmed. When it’s quiet someone in the crowd yells (in Ukrainian), “Victory to Ukraine” and people shout it back. A couple people tell me it was their favorite set at backyard and the best they ever heard. A dancer comes up to me and says thank you and she hands me a gift of Shu Puer tea (which is adorable and I find out later tastes great too). It’s probably the most complete and emotional set I’ve played and I shake hands on my way out with many attendees just thanking me for being there. As is the case though each night, I’m back in the hotel before midnight and still buzzing. It will be difficult to sleep.
July 14th, 2024 Kyiv, Ukraine
Eventually I’m able to fall asleep and even get some solid hours (a rare thing in my line of work). I have another breakfast at Supra, the great restaurant/cafe at Bursa, and explore a little bit outside. It is excruciatingly hot in Kyiv right now so despite not wanting to venture too far away from the hotel anyways, it’s also simply just too hot to walk that much. Today though too I’m playing another set. This one is called B-Side by ∄ and it takes place at the Community Cafe, which is located right next to the club. The concept is for artists to play music they might not normally get to play and choose some favorites from the “b-side” of their collections.
I am particularly excited about this one as I always relish an opportunity to play things I normally don’t get to and just to play some favourites and influences in a nice setting is always pleasurable for me. Community Cafe has a lovely outdoor space which has a dance floor and booth surrounded by trees. It’s really comfortable to be there and the shade is nice given the heat. Native Outsider plays before me (who also works at ∄) and I go on at 8:00 pm. I start with some hip hop, metal and post-punk and see the dance floor start to fill up so I move into more danceable stuff mainly from the goth or dark scene as that is in fact where I come from and what I always come back to. The floor is full and the the sun sets and it’s another amazing crowd. This turns out to be so much fun and such a great vibe. I love the crowds here. Again it’s hard to stop playing around 10:30. I do of course but it also feels good each time knowing people came together and raised funds for a purpose.
After closing ∄
July 15th, 2024 Kyiv, Ukraine
I wake up and it’s my last day here which is bittersweet actually. I’ve had such an incredible time these past few days and played some of the most special sets of my career. I’ve met a lot of great people and what I’ve seen has been nothing short of inspiring. With that being said, I must also remind myself that I have been extremely lucky to be here during a quiet stretch. I’m told that the attacks this past Monday was advantageous timing for my trip. In Kyiv, Russia usually launches a similar missile attack every few months given the cost of munitions and logistics involved. This is a pattern that has seemed to form at this time but again, you must live constantly knowing it can happen at any moment. To this point I have not heard an air siren which is rare and I have to be very grateful for that.
I have one last dinner with Pledov at Supra and we go to the train station. Now the journey back begins and it’s almost the same trip but this time I take the Kyiv Express - Chełm - Warsaw - Frankfurt (oder) - Berlin (by bus). It will again take over 24 hours and I leave around 7:45 pm and arrive back at Berlin Central Station after 9 pm the next day. I thank Pledov for everything and board the overnight train.
July 16th, 2024 Berlin, Germany
A full day later our bus pulls up to Berlin Haubtbanhof and I feel grateful, relieved, inspired, confused and exhausted. I come back still with chills thinking about the sets I played as well as all the emotions which came from learning about the realities of the war and all the great people I met along the way. I again think about how lucky I am that I did not have to experience any of the war’s harshest realities. It will take some time to recover and process this one.
After the event ∄ posts on social media that our backyard event on July 13th raised ₴243,578 (Ukrainian hryvnia). The funds raised are for the needs of the 72nd mechanized brigade named after the Black Zaporozhians. Every week they do this event and every week funds continue to be raised by cultural events of all kinds across the city and country. I truly admire the resilience of the Ukrainian people and communities. Seeing first hand the kind of work and desire it takes to do all of this every single week while existing under very difficult conditions is powerful. It also reignited a fire I have for parties and events as seeing what they can be used to accomplish brings me back to the essence of the culture.
I urge people to stay informed about what is happening in Ukraine and as always if you are able to donate then find a cause that resonates with you and contribute to it. For those of us in the cultural sector, I can recommend visiting Kyiv as what is happening there right now is something very unique and special. These were some of the most engaging, intelligent and good hearted crowds I’ve ever played for. However, the risks must be kept at the forefront of your mind because there is still a war raging, no part of the country is completely safe and there are still serious dangers involved with traveling there. In then end, I am back very inspired and felt compelled to document my experience. It’s about going with the flow of life and using what is in front of you, under the conditions you have to do something great.
For more information and to donate to K41 community fund visit: https://k41community.fund/
Fountain of Samson, Kyiv