YU by UY Studio

Berlin's UY Studio continues to be one of our favorite fashion brands. Their minimal, yet progressive designs, unisex fits and use of quality materials stands nearly unrivaled in today's market. The art collective looks to build upon the cult success of UY and have introduced a new line titled YU. From the label:

YU enables UY to manufacture garments at a larger scale and with higher quality materials without compromising the label’s signature values: minimalism, affordability, and customization. Thus doing, YU combine UY original values and unique designs while making them available for retail at a larger scale.

The main focus of UY’s aesthetics has always been its minimalistic silhouette with clean lines, original cuts and interesting shapes. The new line, YU, will encompass these key traits while utilizing new materials— such as denim, fine viscose, and natural cotton—which will be exclusively used for the retail line

To help launch the line, UY held a garden party during Berlin Fashion Week. Here, people could view the YU line in an elegant setting and enjoy the Berlin summer weather. The brand was gracious enough to share the photos from the launch and we are proud to present them on The Brvtalist.

YU is great news for consumers as it will make UY's garments more widely available without sacrificing the quality they have become known for. We can further expect avant-garde silhouettes and a monochrome palate in new materials like denim(!). We are excited to bring you this great news and will be sure to keep you posted with more information. Please visit UY Studio for more.

-JRS

*click to enlarge. Photos by Strey Katt.

New Brvtalism No. 022

As it was written, your day has come. Your fate sealed, prayers are meaningless. Enter the halls, but a distant memory.

The Brvtalist is proud to present New Brvtalism No. 022 - Orphan Swords. This Belgium-based duo creates some of our favorite tracks that masterfully weave in between techno, noise, experimental and even post-punk. Their latest release "License to Desire/Risk in a New Age" (out now on Desire Records), is easily one the most played releases at Brvtalist HQ and tracks like "Haagenti" just keep getting better. With the recent news that a live date is confirmed for October 23rd in Berlin, we have even more reasons to be excited. For more information, please visit Facebook and Soundcloud.

-JRS

Tracklist:
Helm - I exist in A Fog (part1) - PAN
The Triple Tree - The Ash Tree - Cold Spring
Beneath - Future shock - Berceuse Héroique
Rrose - Levitate - Eaux
Megaptera - The Drill - Slaughter Productions
Tuff Sherm - Smugglers Bureau - Berceuse Heroique
Savage Republic - Attempted coup : Madagascar - Independent Project Records
Pharmakon - Vacuum - Sacred Bones
Ekman - Acid7 (Vereker remix) - Berceuse Heroique
Ekman - GMMDI - Berceuse Heroique
Blood Music - Chicks - PAN
Prurient - Dragonflies To Sew You Up - Hospital Productions
Orphx - la Nebuleuse (Huren Remix) - Hands Productions
Helm - I Existe in A Fog (part2) - PAN
Boyd Rice and Friends - The Orchid and The Death's Head
FIS - Happy Alone - Loopy
Megaptera - Metal Feedback - Slaughter Productions
Huren - Nuklearni - Zhark

Hvnter Gvtherer - Origins

Nothing pleases us more than discovering an artist whose work we not only admire, but whose ethos and design aesthetic share the same principles as ours. Hvnter Gatherer is a Chicago-based jewelry line that features striking metal work and simple yet modern designs that call upon the ideology and imagery of primitive human cultures and trade techniques. Artist and Founder Laura Prieto-Velasco uses both precious and non-precious metals when crafting her pieces and each one possesses a "landscape of unique imperfections" that continue to change over time. We immediately identified with her emphasis on materials, minimalist design style and conceptual campaigns. We reached out to Ms. Prieto-Velasco and she graciously allowed us to feature her new line, "Origins", and answered a few of our questions (See Q&A below)

The Brvtalist: The new shoot is for the "Origins" series. Talk about the inspiration for the collection and what you wanted to do with the shoot.

Hvnter Gvtherer: The idea for Origins sort of evolved out of a desire to dig deeper than jewelry as a historical or personal memento and think of jewelry as a timeless artifact devoid of past, present, or future. The imagery evolved in stages - The first batch was a collaboration with a very talented former student come intern, Ana Zhang, who began working with me as I was starting to think about imagery for the collection. She wanted to incorporate some of her photography and image-making skills into the internship so we began brainstorming ideas for the lookbook.

The second batch of images were created in collaboration with freelance fashion photographer Mateo. We met through a mutual friend and instantly formed a bond over fashion, music and underground culture with a dark gritty edge. The first time we hung out we listened to Rectal Hygenics newest LP together (Ultimate Purity/Permanent Records), which was the perfect soundtrack to set the mood for our collaboration. I find his work and him as a person to be incredibly inspiring and am looking forward to future projects together.

TB: Do you consider your jewelry unisex?

HG: Yes very much so! I try to create timeless yet unique accessories that can punctuate virtually anyone’s wardrobe.

TB: Would love to hear what you're into and how it inspires Hvnter Gvtherer. This could include music, fashion, art, film, etc.

HG: So many things and people inspire me in these genres! I really gravitate towards Iris Van Herpen’s approach to fashion and see her somewhat as a role model in the art/design/fashion world. Her concepts are always extraordinarily relevant and she continually produces collections that synthesize technology and design in new and exciting ways. The inspiration behind the 2015 collection “Hacking Infinity” completely blew me away and was really inspired by the idea of “new geographies and our place within them”.

For film, some of my favorites include psychedelic horror classic "Susperia" by Dario Argento and recent dark humor favorite "What we do in the Shadows". I think a lot of the dramatic macabre imagery and interesting spins on popular culture tropes has influenced the way I design pieces for Hvnter Gvtherer.

Although I try to listen to lots of different kinds of music; raw, experimental and emotionally charged sounds resonate most deeply with me. Kim Gordon and Bill Nace’s newest project Body/Head is a my latest audial addiction, and am eagerly anticipating Chelsea Wolfe’s newest album Abyss.

I have especially enjoyed the underground art and music culture here in Chicago. I try to get out to see things in person as often as possible and am thankful to be a part of a vibrant community of creative individuals. I find the supportive atmosphere inspiring/energizing and am constantly humbled by all the talented people who contribute to it - I love having an excuse take a break from the solitude of being a studio artist and to check out what friends and friends of friends have been up to.

As a visual artist, I have always made it a regular habit to visit local galleries as much as I can. Personal favorites include Johalla Projects, Slow, and Comfort Station. Being summer, this month has also been filled with amazing music and I was thrilled to see so many local talents such as Wrekmeister Harmonies, MT Coast, HIDE, Oozing Wound, and Toupee perform live in some of my favorite venues over the past few weeks.

TB: I Love the primitive quality of your products. Being The Brvtalist, materials are very important to us. Talk about how you select your materials and how they play into your look, aesthetic and build quality.

HG: Although I enjoy working with a variety of materials I have had a deep love affair with metal for almost 15 years. There is something about the way it feels that has me hooked in a way that is difficult to explain….There is a lot of history in every mark, both metaphorically and physically. It is a material equally relevant in its most raw and primitive state and possesses an uncanny ability to synergize with organic and inorganic materials. I am fascinated with it on so many levels but find a deep poetry in its transformative potential as it relates to our past, present, and future selves.

TB: Finally, is each piece handmade?

HG: Yes! I handmake each piece from raw materials, start to finish in my private studio.

We would like to thank Laura for taking the time and contributing such great answers that have made us appreciate her even more. For more information, please visit www.hvntergvtherer.com

-JRS

Pvre Matrix - "Burning Sulfur"

Just released on L.I.E.S, Brooklyn's own Pvre Matrix. This is the artist's first release on the always impressive NY-based label and "Burning Sulfur" immediately caught our attention with its mutated outsider techno taken into hyperdrive. The track maintains a sense of restlessness, then plunges into a frenetic state of precise, sculpted sounds— conjuring up the dizzying upheaval one feels during a state of panic.

Influenced by the likes of Orphx and Maurizio Bianchi, Pvre Matrix records using analog synths, drum machines, and electronics. Earlier this year he released a tape through the noise and techno collective “Primitive Languages,” who previously ran a store located under the JMZ train tracks. You can hear more from Pvre Matrix via Soundcloud.

Special thanks to Monica Zandi for help with this feature.

-JRS

Twentieth Century Society

The Brvtalist is very proud to feature an organization whose mission is very near and dear to our hearts. The Twentieth Century Society (C20) was founded as the Thirties Society in 1979, and exists to safeguard the heritage of British architecture and design from 1914 onward. Throughout the years, C20 has saved dozens of historical and culturally significant architectural sites. The Brutalist movement began in Britain and some of the most notable and important examples of the style are in danger of being demolished. With the help of people like you and me, C20 fights to save these amazing structures and also educates the world on why they are important.

We reached out to the organization to find out more and we were able to speak with Catherine Croft, Director of C20, and she provided some excellent information and insightful responses to our questions. Please find the Q&A below.

Robin Hood Gardens (1972). Architects Alison and Peter Smithson. C20 is currently fighting to save this iconic structure.

The Brvtalist: Tell us a little bit about C20 and its mission.

Catherine Croft: We campaign for the preservation of great architecture and design from 1914 onwards, in the UK. (Yes we do go right up to the present day, and no, we don’t know yet what we’re going to do about our name, now that it’s the C21st!) We are a charity, we have members (who support us and come on our trips), and we have an official role in the planning system. We research the history and significance of buildings (we are lucky in that often we can still speak to their original designers), and we work with architects and owners to ensure that changes needed to provide new facilities don’t compromise what’s special about the buildings we care about.

TB: What is the process for finding and deciding what structures you look to "rescue"?

CC: Every local planning authority has to contact us when it someone makes an application for permission to carry out major work to a building which is already listed, but many of the buildings we are interested in are too recent to be listed yet. That means we rely very extensively on our members and supporters to let us know about what’s going on. We can’t get involved in everything we’d like to (we just don’t have the resources), so we prioritise according to how important we think the building is and how extensive the alterations would be—sadly all too often its total demolition which is being proposed, so those cases go straight to the top of the heap.

Preston Bus Station (1968-1969). Built by Ove Arup and Partners with a design by Keith Ingham and Charles Wilson. Saved with the help of C20. — Preston Bus Station (1968-1969). Built by Ove Arup and Partners with a design by Keith Ingham and Charles Wilson. Saved with the help of C20.

TB: How can people get involved if they want to help?

CC: Lots of ways--- the simplest is just by joining the Society—subscriptions fund our work, and you get to come on trips and kept up to date on cases—readers of the Brvtalist are very welcome! By telling us about buildings under threat, by starting a local campaign, by sending us photographs and researching local history archives. Volunteers also help us with the website, the Magazine and social media, and with running the office here in Farringdon.

TB: Talk about a project you are currently working on and its status:

CC: We are currently trying to prevent the demolition of Robin Hood Gardens. This is a massive housing estate in Tower Hamlets, East London by architect’s Alison and Peter Smithson. It’s been turned down for listing in the past, and there is planning permission to build a new and much denser scheme on the site, but we have got one last chance to save it. It’s a fantastic example of Brutalism.

Architect Richard Rogers has just given us a huge boost by calling on all his contacts to write directly to the Department of Culture Media and Sport asking the new Minister, Tracey Crouch, to finally list it (which she can now do). That would change things completely, and it could be renovated, and the existing community could stay intact which would be great result for heritage, for local people, and for the environment---just think how much energy there is embodied in all that concrete.

As you can see, the importance of an organization like C20 is beyond words. They fight to save structures when no one else can or will and so many have been preserved, which helps continue the legacy of great architecture and teach the future about their importance. We would like to thank Director Catherine Croft for taking the time out to answer some questions and we urge all of our readers to get involved with this great charity. For more information please visit http://www.c20society.org.uk

-JRS

South Bank Centre, London. Constructed by the LCC’s / GLC’s Architect’s Department between 1963 and 68. It sits in the Southbank Conservation Area, between the National Theatre (Grade II * listed) and Royal Festival Hall (Grade I listed).The complex… — South Bank Centre, London. Constructed by the LCC’s / GLC’s Architect’s Department between 1963 and 68. It sits in the Southbank Conservation Area, between the National Theatre (Grade II * listed) and Royal Festival Hall (Grade I listed).The complex – an arts centre which includes the Purcell Rooms, Queen Elizabeth Hall and Hayward Gallery – showcases some of the best and most important Brutalist architecture in the country. Plans for demolition have been dropped after C20 published a massive photomontage.

Birmingham Library (1974). Architect John Madin. Slated for demolition despite its glamours role in BBC's "The Game".

New Brvtalism No. 021 - S S S S

Yearning to enter a world unknown, you envision yourself elsewhere. The hope overcomes you. You can see it, but you are forbidden to enter.

The Brvtalist is pleased to present a new mix by S S S S. Based in Switzerland, we first discovered his work via Viscerale's amazing New Brvtalism No. 013. We were immediately hooked and connected with the space his material occupies - somewhere in between techno, noise, experimental and even soundtrack. HIs mixes further exemplify this unique and interesting combination and we are thrilled to have him contribute one for us.

For more information, please visit Facebook and Soundcloud.

-JRS

Tracklist
Moondog - 2 Quotations in Dialogue
S S S S - Siechtum (Edit)
Wavering Hands - Wire (Synth Edit)
Ke/Hil - Children Of The Devolution
Realmz - Air Supremacy
Pure Ground - Poison
AnD - Power Spectrum (O/H Remix)
Prurient - Every Relationship Earthrise
Rome - Our Holy Rue
El Mahdy Jr. - Lost Bridge (Killing Sound Version)
Rmedl / K11- Katàbasis Pt. 1
Florian Fricke - Spirit of Peace 1
The God Machine - The Desert Song

Hylé Tapes

The Brvtalist is proud to feature a new experimental electronic label from Paris called Hylé Tapes. This cassette only label's first release was on January 15th, 2015 from JuJu, a French duo of improvised electronic music. Since that time, Hylé has put out an impressive array of both homegrown and international artists. We were immediately drawn to the label's unique roster and commitment to experimentation. We also had the privilege of speaking to the label's founder/curator and he contributed an exclusive mix made up of all Hylé artists.

We also wanted to get some more information about the label, its mission, cassette culture in France and more. Richard, head of Hylé, shared some insightful thoughts:

In philosophy, hyle ("hylé" in French) (from Ancient Greek: ὕλη) refers to matter or "stuff". The Greeks originally had no word for matter in general, as opposed to raw material suitable for some specific purpose or other, so Aristotle adapted the word for "wood" to this purpose. The idea that everything physical is made of the same basic substance holds up well under modern science, although it may be thought of more in terms of energy or matter/energy.

I started Hylé Tapes at the end of 2014. As a musician, I wanted to create a label without waiting for months (or years) to release an album. I am a fan of vinyl records, but this medium has become very expensive to produce and there are always waiting lists for vinyl pressings. Cassette is a medium derived from my childhood, the object is beautiful and easy to produce. I can make a DIY production fast enough taking into account every single detail.

France has an amazing background concerning avant-garde and experimental music. There are labels like Celebration Tapes or THRHNDRDSVNTNN that do a great job and everyone should explore their catalogs.

Hylé Tapes is quite heterogeneous but there is a guiding light - experimental electronic music.

The Brvtalist would like to thank Hylé for an incredible mix and introducing us to a whole new world of experimental artists. JuJu, Acid Fountain and TAKAHIRO MUKAI have all been in heavy rotation since their discovery. We look forward to following this label and its already impressive output. For more information please visit Facebook, Bandcamp and Soundcloud.

The Brutalist Playground

Now on view at the Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA), is a new exhibition by artist Simon Terrill and design collective Assemblage that shifts the focus of Brutalist architecture to the often overlooked play areas that exist at the foot of many of Britain's most notable structures. The Brutalist Playground is an interesting look at the intentions and functions of the architects who designed residential buildings that are still furiously debated today.

Balfron Tower playground, Poplar, London, 2015. Photograph by Simon Terrill/Assemble — Balfron Tower playground, Poplar, London, 2015. Photograph by Simon Terrill/Assemble

This is a fascinating examination of how much these structures were a product of their time. Many of the play areas consist of peculiar and odd items and several of the features would not be considered safe by the society's standards today. From crashed flying saucers to cruise-liner chimneys to hollow concrete boxes, the playgrounds were very representative of the political, social and cultural movements of the era in which they were constructed. It's also amazing to see how the ethos of Brutalism was carried out to every last detail. Raw materials like concrete and metal were exclusively used for many of these, and as the photos indicate, simply look uninviting and inhospitable.

The exhibition takes up the entire architectural gallery at RIBA, and as a special addition, design studio Assemblage has re-created some of the play areas indoors that children can actually use. However, instead of using concrete, they are made of foam and employ bright colors. Artist James Terrill remarks,

"We talked about using concrete, but it would have been impossible in a museum. And it would have been inappropriate for children to play on. So we used foam, which by coincidence has a very similar speckled look to bush-hammered concrete. The colours are standard issue, and relate to the density of the foam. Pink foam is denser than blue. The brutalist ethos was to expose the function of a building, and honour the truth of your materials. Brutalist playgrounds were a truth to concrete, ours is a truth to foam."

This is an amazing exhibition that immediately caught our eye. Brutalism continues to be a divisive architectural movement and this will no doubt only add to the debate. One thing is certain, it reaffirms that idea that Brutalist structures were honest and stayed true to the ideals of their creators. Function and materials were of the utmost importance and this was carried out in every last detail, which is something I always admire. On view in London until August 16th, 2015. For more information please visit RIBA.

-JRS

*click to enlarge

Clockwise from top left:

Park Hill estate, Sheffield, 1962. Photograph by Arch Press Archive/RIBA
Churchill Gardens estate, Pimlico, 1963. Photograph by John Maltby/RIBA
Churchill Gardens estate, Pimlico, 1956. Photograph by John Maltby/RIBA
Assemble and Simon Terrill’s playground at RIBA. Photograph by David Levene for the Guardian.
Assemble and Simon Terrill’s playground at RIBA. Photograph by David Levene for the Guardian.
Park Hill estate, Sheffield, 1963. Photograph by Arch Press Archive/RIBA

New Brvtalism No. 020 - Violet Poison

The touch of her skin makes you quiver. She is power. She is lust. She is addiction. A goddess is here to conquer you.

The Brvtalist is proud to present a new mix by Italy's Violet Poison. One of the most innovative, dynamic and subversive artists today, his body of work can only be described as prolific. Whether releasing material as a solo producer, or as a collaborator, as in his Violetshaped project, it continues to be some of our favorite proto-techno in the world today. He has released material on labels such as Bed of Nails, Hospital Productions, Haunted Air and his own imprint, Violet Poison. His latest release is titled "The Gaze", out on Candela Rising.

This is perhaps one of the most epic and conceptual New Brvtalism mixes to date. This is an all female band/artist mix - from experimental music from the 60's, rhythmic noise and vintage electronica, to synth-pop, darkwave, minimal wave, EBM, punk, acid, techno, italodisco, hi-nrg and j pop. Artists include Ruth White, Suzanne Ciani, Mushy, Anne Clark, Gina X, Tara Cross, Emily Faryna, Malaria!, Matador, Ericka Irganon, Helena Hauff, Xosar, Miss Djax, 51717, Doris Norton.

We thank Violet Poison for his incredible contribution to our series. For more information please visit Facebook and Soundcloud.

-JRS

Rynshu Spring/Summer 2016

On June 28th, 2015, the Maison des Métallos in Paris played host to Japanese designer Rynshu's Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Paris is arguably the premiere fashion week each season and it is seemingly pulling further and further away from the pack. While there are literally dozens of shows we could feature, Rynshu's collection stood out for many reasons.

If you have been following The Brvtalist (and progressive fashion in general), you would have noticed that unisex is a very popular theme. Perhaps it's in the zeitgeist as everything from marriage equality to transgender acceptance is in the news just about every day. Fashion always has a way of mirroring culture and the best designers always have their finger on the pulse. This collection from Rynshu took a bold step in creating a unisex appeal. He kept the designs both masculine and minimal while utilizing a powerful color to bridge the gender gap. The designer talks about his use of electric pink in the collection as a way of blurring the lines between mens and womenswear. Obviously pink is traditionally thought of as a feminine color but the hue presented here does a nice job of making it not so obvious. Set against stark black leathers and rugged boots, the line crafts a great balance of masculine and feminine looks. We also love the loose fitting shirts and flowing tails which exude comfort and elegance. Details like cutouts, prints and great looking ties put the finishing touches on a stellar collection.

Showing since 2008, Rynshu is part of a great field of Japenese designers that continues to look toward the future for inspiration. We look forward to more of his collections. For more information please visit Rynshu.com.

-JRS

*Photographs by Matteo Volta/Imaxtree.

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