London Fashion Week 2015 is hands down the most brvtal fashion week of the year. Warriors, harlequins, diamond dogs and ghostly shadows all walked the runway - some wore leather, some wore lace...and feathers, PVC, fur and silk.
Below are some stand out brvtal collections from Gareth Pugh, Giles, Pam Hogg, Phoebe English, and Marko Mitanovski.
-TB
With news that the worst trend of the 90's, JNCO Jeans, might be returning to racks, I figured a glass of pinot grigio and a look at New York Fashion Week might be in order.
Shayne Oliver, the man behind Hood By Air, began screen printing shirts in Williamsburg at his NY party GHE20G0TH1K (Ghetto Gothic) in 2006. After being scouted by industry heavy hitters and winning a substantial cash money and mentor prize from LVMH, HBA is upping the luxury factor in their latest runway presentation. "Youth excellence" is their motto - gender neutral, fresh and fun. The show sort of screamed Zoolander to me - and I'm not mad about. (Images 1-7)
Pierre Costin of Porsche Design presented what he calls his "ideal uniform of the future" - clothes that make you feel bolder and stronger (or what I call, "back up bitch") is his angle. I do love a good totalitarian vibe and this collection has it - structured military inspired looks with a futuristic spin. (Images 8-14)
It's no secret I love Chromat for a variety of reasons. I never get tired of the architectural aesthetic, diversity of models (curvy builds and trans models, represent) and sexy fun vibe. Also, latex and patent leather always enchant me. (Images 15-20)
Assembly New York, perhaps truly the most 'ready to wear' designer in this post, showcased sleek jackets and constructed layers for their Fall 2015 collection. An opportunity to bundle up while still looking long, lean and sophisticated. (Images 20-25)
-TB
Yes, it’s just a couple days away and if you don’t have plans now, you may or may not be panicking. Personally, I’m more of a stay at home on NYE but for those that like to indulge in the underground nightlife of the City of Angeles, there’s a couple events that may be worth going to. Here’s a quick rundown:
Noire’s Eve - The Complex
Black Bomb Productions Presents
“In Darkness There Is Always A Light”
A New Year’s Eve party of Dark Music EXTRAVAGANZA,
including Dark Electronics Industrial, Goth, Dark 80’s, New
Wave, Shoegaze, Ethereal, and everything in between!
With:
DJ BLACKEYED (Noize Faktory, Batcave)
DJ DOOMIE (Violane)
DJ GHEIST (Chamber, Discord)
DJ FRANCK HBOMB (Das Bunker, Noize Faktory, Batcave)
Complimentary glass of champagne at Midnight
accompanied by a mini Strawberry Shortcake (vegan)
courtesy of Das Baker and Doomie’s Home Cooking.
More info here.
Sublevel Space Explorer 13 Year Anniversary - Secret Location
Dj Pierre
Doc Martin W/Sublevel live
The Focus DJ’s:
Josh Billings
Nonfiction
Wobs
All Pre-Sales include 1 free CD,and 1 free Beverage
No Frills New Year’s Eve - Cafe NELA
If you’re in the mood for some classic punk and no bullshit, then check out Cafe NELA in Cypress Park for a rare appearance by The Controllers.
More info here.
Honeycut 54 - Honeycut
Spend New Year’s in style with two of my favorite ladies, Lady Monix and Whitney Fierce.
More info here.
Don’t drink and drive and good luck with surge pricing. Happy New Year!
Had a little extra time so I thought I would dedicate a bonus round of the “Best Of” to another medium I hold near and dear - mixes. Between podcasts, souncloud and internet radio, there’s an incredible amount of material out there. While some disagree with the ethos behind the mix, I love what it’s become and it truly can be an art form and a great way to promote your brand/aesthetic as well. Here are some mixes that stood out for me this year:
Samuel Kerridge - Red Bull Train Wreck Mix
Kerridge displays such an incredible mix of brvtalising sound and artful technique. When I heard Suicide over Covered in Sand to kick things off I was blown away.
Kerri LeBon - Jealous God Issue No. Five
One of my favorites of 2014. Kerri’s mixes cover such a wide array of genres and eras, yet manage to find a common thread every time. I loved the whole feeling of this mix and hearing Body of Light with The Wake and Silent Servant was amazing.
Pandora’s Jukebox - Mega.Mix.One.
While maybe not the most Brvtal mix, I included this because Pandora’s Jukebox is the queen of assembling sexy, sultry after-hours type vibes and you can always envision yourself at an underground avant garde party smoking cigarettes and drinking champagne with interesting people. And I like that.
S13 - Burning the Existence
Secret 13 has easily the most unique, in depth, fringe mixes out there. I learn something new every single time a mix comes out. When “Burning the Existence” was released on Halloween it took things to another level. 3 hours of the outer edges of goth and post punk. This will be played for years to come.
Violet Poison - SWQW Podcast 005
I love the whole aesthetic of Violet Poison and they create dark, powerful music that can fit into multiple genres. This is clearly on display here with a great darkwave mix that lets you peer into the mind.
Silent Servant - Powell Melon Magic on NTS Radio (April)
I could have also went with Silent Servant’s LN-CC mix, Fabric X Jealous God and a couple others but I just had the most fun listening to this one. Juan continues to show that he is one of the most versatile and skilled producers/djs out there.
CVLT Nation - Deathrock 2014 curated by Oliver Shephard
These deathrock mixes have been going for a couple years now and they have not lost any steam in my opinion. The deathrock scene is currently going strong and these are a great way to discover old and new.
Jock Club - Red City Deep House Mix
This is short but powerful and most importantly, DEEP. This could have been mixed by an old school Detroit legend but it’s by the young and up and coming deep house member of Ascetic House. They win again.
Rrose - Little White Earbuds
A rare mix from Rrose this year. I love h/er whole performance art concept and these mixes always come with dark, brooding techno, perfect for the endless nights.
Ryan Elliot - Panorama Bar 06
Ok fine, this is obvious but it really is that good!
I’ve almost been dreading doing this one because of the level of difficulty involved. Decided to just go in and put what came to the top of my mind. Here’s everything from across the board.
Black Rain - Dark Pool
A sorely under-appreciated musician from New York, Stuart Argabright shows that there are great forces that have been at work under most noses for years. Thank you to Blackest Ever Black for exposing more people to Argabright, and Dark Pool is perhaps one of the most brvtal releases of the year. With a soundtrack-like vibe, this record lives and breathes in the shadows. When Protoplasm was released ahead of the album, I knew we were in for something special.
Godflesh - A World Lit Only By Fire
How big of a year was this for Godflesh?? Not only did they return to tour the states and CRUSHED everybody, but the first album in 13 years came out and they didn’t even miss a beat. Justin Broadrick continues to build on his prolific musical output and my favorite part about this record was that it wasn’t pandering to the older fans or sound. “A World” sounded fresh, current and even more punishing than I could have imagined.
Lucy - Churches, Schools and Guns
Dark, complex techno for the cerebral set. Some had issues with “Churches” slight departure from Lucy’s previous full length, “Word Play for Working Bees”, but I loved the new output. It was pensive, heavy and sophisticated. “The Self as Another” and “Illusion of Choice” remain strand out tracks of the year.
Jealous God 04 - Broken English Club
There was definitely some excitement when word broke that Oliver Ho/Raudive would release some new material on Jealous God going even deeper in to his post punk and industrial roots. We just didn’t know how good it was going to be. “Plastic Bag” was a near game changer this year and further cemented the Jealous God label as a premiere brand for dark, underground techno and noise in the post punk vein.
The Body - I Shall Die Here
Many may expect pure Doom when sitting down with this, but it is much MUCH more. This two-piece from Portland has been around a while but this has to be their most powerful record to date. The black atmospherics have more in common with Black Rain than doom metal bands and the production value on this is superb.
Marshstepper - A New Sacrament of Penance
From the far off lands of Tempe, Arizona, dwells a group of up and coming musicians that are producing some of the most exciting projects in music today. Marshstepper is one of the preeminent acts of the Ascetic House collective and for good reason. They create music fans of techno and black metal will both agree on. With bvtalising rhythms and ritual performance pieces, this band may have defined what I wanted in music this past year and beyond. After getting picked up by Downwards North America and doing what may become mythical live shows from LA to New York to Berlin, I could not be more excited about a single project.
Wrangler - LA Spark
Wrangler is made up of Cabaret Voltaire’s Stephen Mallinder, producer Ben Edwards, and Tunng’s Phil Winter. All three have been in the business for quite some time. This record pretty much came out of nowhere for me and wouldn’t leave my speakers for a while. An amazing mix of dark, gothic vocals with an incredible danceability that is nostalgic but still very new. I hope they do another record. Outstanding.
Blut Aus Nord - Memoria Vetusta III – Saturnian Poetry
Arguably one of the most prolific and versatile names in Black Metal since the 90’s, Vindsval’s band continues to show that they are a cut above almost everyone else out there. Not many bands can use the blank canvas of Black Metal and paint something so different, yet so distinctive each time. Some people didn’t like some of the experimentation of the 777 trilogy records and I was maybe one of them at times. However, I always respect their direction and willingness to push the boundaries. “Memoria” went back to some of the older roots but reinvented their punishing, genre bending sound even more. Tracks like “Forhist” remind you that this guy can really compose a song. Beautifully brvtal.
Sumerian Fleet - Just Pressure
Between Wrangler and Sumerian Fleet, we pretty much figured out that time and age mean nothing because both of these acts are producing some of the best material in their careers. Sumerian’s dark wave was so amazingly goth that there wasn’t a loud enough volume on my speakers. Alden Tyrell, Mr Pauli and vocalist Zarkoff hit the nail so dead on the head it’s going to be hard to top. This was was timeless dark wave yet very of the moment.
Bruno Nicolai - All The Colours Of The Dark
A special release by the great minds at Finders Keepers, this is quintessential giallo. Diabolical, devious and sexy all converge in this incredible package which includes red vinyl and an absolutely amazing poster. I nerded pretty hard on horror movie soundtrack re-issues (so much good stuff out there), but this one stood above the pack for me.
Ok there’s 10 of my favorites from 2014.
-JRS
It wouldn’t be a proper “Best of” week on The Brvtalist without some Brvtal Fashion. 2014 was a pretty good year in the fashion industry (for our tastes) and it’s good to go back and take stock of some of the standout pieces of the year. Maybe you can get them on sale now too!
The Acne Gibson S/S 2014 Moto Jacket in Metallic Silver. It’s hard to get me to be interested in something other than black, let alone something this shiny. However, the way this jacket is done is on some kind of glamorous futuristic level that really resonates with me.
Alexandre Plokhov FW2014 Double Zip Ankle Boots. Handmade in Italy from horse leather, these became the holy grail of boots this year. The double zip closure and asymmetric side panels are unrivaled.
South 2 West 8 Park Tote - This Japanese brand makes raw, rugged accessories that are ready for the elements. This tote is made from military grade ballistic nylon with raw leather handles and matte black hardware. I happen to have this one and it’s held up great and I love the small deer skull logo too.
Surface to Air Ski Mask - Nothing looks more Brvtal that wearing a full coverage ski mask, and I love the S2A sigil on the back of the one.
Sandro Paris “Hell” Blazer - Sharp, smart and evil blazer with a leather lapel. Wear this everywhere and you’re set.
Actual Pain x Straight to Hell Leather Moto - Brvtal looking moto with nice hardware and marble lining all for $315.
Mykita x Damir Doma DD 01 - Incredible lightweight aviators in matte black with a clear inner trim. Details are amazing.
Helmut Lang Chunky Zip Sweater - Off center zipper with shawl collar in chunky wool. Love Helmut Lang.
Acne Studios Hans Bomber Slip On - Made out of the same material as military bombers, the muted black with a cushioned padded leather inner is sleek, casual yet refined.
April 77 Joey Skinny Jean - This Parisian brand was a cvlt favorite a few years ago, then stopped production and is now back with a big bang. They’re all rock n roll inspired and like to use vegan materials. The Joey jeans are a great fit with really nice details at a good price.
Oak NYC Combo Leather Backpack - Nice, American made, leather and canvas backpack with enough white to get noticed.
Goti Malleable Metal Bracelet - One of the most unique pieces I’ve come across. This Goti bracelet is made in Italy out of thick, slightly tarnished tin. You can mold it to do whatever you want and it doesn’t feel flimsy at all. Definitely an eye catching piece.
Fashion is hard. Brvtal Fashion is even more difficult. In some ways it’s easy because you know what the look for, but in other respects there’s just too much crap to sift through. Luckily, there”s quite a few brands out there that slant towards dark, high concept fashion and here’s hoping these designers keep pushing the boundaries.
-JRS
There was so much good stuff this past year by way of parties, live acts, DJs and more. This may even be the best year in recent memory, so it will be hard to pluck a select few from the batch. This list includes all of the above and here are some of the nights that defined 2014 for me.
I can’t pick a #1, but if I had to it might be this. Seeing Godflesh live was almost surreal and they are a band that has almost morphed into some incredible myth throughout the years. After being let down the previous Fall by a cancelled show due to a passport issue, when I saw it was resurrected, I almost lost it. Throw in Cut Hands and you’ve got pure magic. Godflesh delivered x1000 and I thought my ears may have suffered permanent damage, which I was kind of ok with. Amazing show that I think I’ll always remember.
It’s crazy to say that I hadn’t seen Nick Cave before this show. He’s always been a huge influence on me, but I skipped some of the Grinderman tours and balked at the high ticket prices for some of the other gigs in L.A. throughout the years. When this show came up, I found decent tickets and decided to go for it. I honestly haven’t been a huge fan of some of the more recent output but it’s still Nick Cave. I couldn’t be happier that I went because the show was amazing. They played all the old favorites and some of the live versions were incredible. At this age he’s still got a youthful energy and swagger that can’t be denied.
Was there any place I visited more than The Complex this past year? Probably not and “Manufactured” is great summation of all the incredible music the venue has hosted. THREE nights of L.A.’s homegrown “dark electronic” music talent. From kicking things off with Vogel to crushing on Tearist to seeing Silent Servant destroy LIVE, I didn’t think I was going to survive after that weekend. Hoping they keep this going!
This entry almost isn’t fair because not only was it my first trip to Berlin (and Berghain) but this was one of the best nights of the year in my opinion. It’s hard to describe the atmosphere inside so that’s why it’s better if you just go. I partied there over the course of two days and saw everyone from Rrose to Lucy on Sunday night. It almost seems surreal. Can’t wait to go back.
We are so lucky to have Maldoror in L.A.. After going to so many, it’s easy to take it for granted. I could have a Maldoror only list and it wouldn’t be easy. This particular one stood out because all of the pieces were amazing. Sleep Clinic to Profilgate, but the one performance that blew my mind was Encapsulate. I’m still talking about that show and I remember going outside after he was done and just processing it for a few minutes.
Along with The Complex is there anyone who has done more for Los Angeles than Mount Analog? Mahssa has put together shows that even Berliners are jealous of. Nuit Noire has become a touchstone night and every event gets more and more impressive. I picked the 10th installment because it was an incredible melding of genres, newcomers and legends all alike. Where else does Marshstepper and Henning Baer make this much sense? Amazing night at a great new host venue. Thank you Mount Analog.
These are just a FEW of an incredible year of live music and events. I’ve been to Berlin, New York, San Francisco and others all pretty recently and I have to say Los Angeles is doing it better than anyone. Thanks to all of the acts, promoters, venues and fans. Looking forward to a great 2015.
I never really like compiling lists of the year’s best but at the same time it’s hard NOT to revisit at least a few things that really left an impact over the last 365 days. One thing that comes to mind right away is Under The Skin. Director Johnathan Glazer’s quiet, pensive, yet masterful science fiction film resonated with me down to the core. One of the big reasons for this is Mica Levi’s accompanying soundtrack. Perhaps one of the best science fiction, if not film soundtracks to come out in years, the music was absolutely essential to creating the atmosphere and mood of the film. Parts of it were recorded in a giant shipping container and the percussion and strings were eerie and aggressive at the same time. Scarlett Johansson played a beautifully terrifying alien that should really be every man’s worst nightmare. Along with numerous music videos and commercials, Glazer has put together three great films, with Under The Skin being his best one yet. The use of soundtracks also is been lost in science fiction and horror films throughout the years but this brought marriage back in a big way. For both the movie and the soundtrack, this was easily one of my favorite projects of the year.
-JRS
A holiday list for all the Brvtal ladies!
Don’t Shoot the Messenger
Huge fan of DSTM from Berlin! We visited their store in Mitte this past summer and I wanted to take everything home! The Soma Poncho is perfect for LA winters - wrap it or let it hang for different looks $295.68 US.
Tulip Dress from Australian label Shakuhachi. $266 at Need Supply.
Toilet Paper 2015 Calendar
The Toiletpaper wall calendar 2015 features photographs conceived by Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari taken from their magazine Toiletpaper, an image-only publication devoted to the combination of the height of attractiveness with that of ugliness. (LNCC) $20 at Barnes & Noble.
Myrrh Choker Necklace - $130 at Otherwild
Vagabond Shoes
I love Vagabond shoes from Sweden. These have the perfect punk rock pointed toe along with cut out sides and a buckle.
Vagabond Marja Boot $140 USD
Carlo Mollino - Polaroids
Polaroids is a collection of artfully shot erotic photos by designer Carlo Mollino taken in the last 14 years of his life. Mollino’s career spanned four decades during which he designed furniture, buildings, women’s fashion, racing cars, and theater sets - most of which were inspired by movement and sensuality. Available on Amazon $40
Silver Lining Opticians
Unisex is best when in comes to sunglasses at Brvtalist headquarters. Digging this pair from Silver Lining Opticians.
Men’s Phosphorus Sunglasses at Totokaelo $375
A Lab on Fire - What We Do in Paris is Secret
My go to fragrance again and again. Described as “rich, sweet notes of vanilla, honey, tonka bean and tolu, the warm sensuality of sandalwood, musks, ambergris, and the playful Turkish rose, lychee and bergamot” - this scent is addictive. Available at Lucky Scent $110
Chromat
We’ve been following Chromat for a long time and have really enjoyed seeing the evolution of this brand! Super talented architecture student turned fashion designer Becca McCharen continues to expand the brand by introducing new elements like LED lights (as seen above with the Bionic LED Cage Cape) and introducing a Curve line for sexy women of all sizes.
(L-R TOP) Bionic LED Cage Cape $1668, Axis Belt $216
Underwire Bralette Curve $282, Coil Skirt $499
Collina Strada Novella Backpack at OAK $600
A place to stash all your new goods!
Happy Holidaze! -TB
It’s finally here. Tis the season of giving, but also RECEIVING. With so many options on the market, it’s become incredibly difficult to sift through the mess and find what’s truly Brvtal. Without further ado, behold The Brvtal List:
Fashion
A big fan of the new Actual Pain x Straight to Hell Moto Jacket. Buffalo leather, marble lining and nickel hardware is all looking good and for a great price as well. At Full Breach.
Alexander Plokhov Cape - Stay warm, comfortable and look like a super villain. This whole list could just be Plohkov, but I had to edit a little bit. At Alexander Plokhov.
The April 77 Brit Open Black denim jacket is a great fitting option with a black button snap front and a unique zip detail around the waist. At April 77.
Get future with Acne Studios’ metallic Malik pullover. At Acne Studios.
Zippers are always a nice touch and they are in this season. Zip detail sweater from COS.
You can never have too much black denim and Cheap Monday’s “Stockholm” collection for Urban Outfitters UK is a nice addition.
Stay fit and look menacing in Honja High Tops by Y-3.
Holiday party, charity gala, cocktails, grocery store. Never know when you’ll need a blazer. By Julius.
Nice (satin) pants go a long way too. By Acne Studios.
Versatile side zip boot by COS.
Leather fingerless gloves by Marc Jacobs.
Everyone likes hoodies. Why not make yours leather? By Helmut Lang.
"Give the gift of sexy." Bold trunk by Calvin Klein.
Accessories & More
Jealous God Slipmats. At ReadyMade.
New sci-fi with instant classic status. At Amazon.
Who doesn’t want a machete that looks fit for a Gladiator? Cold Steel Knives.
Status II by Grey Ant. Never fails.
For lovers of dark fashion. At Amazon.
Love the new jewelry collection by Deadwood. All made in Italy.
You’re nothing if you don’t smell good. Back on the market by Helmut Lang.
Look good, smell good, be prepared. A new “pocket shotgun” by Heizer.
Carry your goods in a quality pack. By Cote & Ciel.
You’re nothing if you can’t make a quality cocktail. Bitter Tears.
Some say this is the best personal use drone on the market. HD video, GPS, extended flight time. At Amazon.
Gotta get something for her too. Zana Bayne harness is the right choice.
These are all ideas, guidelines, examples and inspiration. Have a Brvtal Holiday Season.
-JRS
